Charlia Lakes

Charlia Lakes

July 19, 2025|Olympics|Nova
alpine-lakesbackpackingovernightdog-friendlyswimmingalpine-viewsrocky
21.1 mi
Distance
7500 ft
Elev. Gain
7800 ft
Elev. Loss
6950 ft
Max Elev.
2 days
Duration

Elevation Profile

2,5183,4024,2865,1706,0546,9380.0 mi4.2 mi8.4 mi12.6 mi16.8 mi21.0 miElevation (ft)
Trail Narration
0:00--:--

Photos

Leaving the Car Behind

Saturday afternoon, mid-July. Low sixties, a breeze coming off the west, clouds drifting but nothing serious. I could smell the trail from the parking lot — warm dirt, cedar bark, something small and furred that had crossed recently. My human was still fussing with zippers on the pack. I was ready before he started. Just past the trailhead, I caught elk — their heavy grassy scent hanging in the trees. I stopped and alerted. My human paused, scanned the forest, then nodded. Nothing in sight, but they'd been here recently. We moved through their space quietly.

Nova leading the way up a dirt trail through subalpine forest with snow-capped peaks visible through the trees

Nova trotting ahead on the trail through subalpine forest, snow-capped peaks behind

The trail climbed steady along a ridge and the trees thinned fast. I could feel the air change — cooler, thinner, carrying the smell of snowmelt and rock. I kept ahead, checking back every few minutes to make sure my human was keeping up. He usually does. Eventually.

Nova standing on a ridge trail with a panoramic view of snow-capped Olympic peaks behind, red Indian paintbrush wildflowers along the trail

The Ridge

The forest dropped away and there was nothing but rock and sky. I stood at the edge of a high point and let the wind press into my fur. Behind me, the Olympics — jagged, close, stacked like teeth. The kind of place that makes the Buckhorn Wilderness feel enormous. I belong in places like this. Not because anyone brought me here — because something in me recognizes it. The rock, the wind, the scale of it. This is where I'm most myself.

Nova standing on a rocky ridge with dramatic jagged Olympic peaks and deep valleys close behind under blue sky with clouds

The Lakes

Above treeline, I saw the water. Turquoise, sitting in a basin ringed by rock and old snow. I picked up the pace. My human knows the look.

Nova on a barren slope descending toward a turquoise alpine lake in a cirque basin with jagged peaks and a snowfield above

At the shore I stood still for a moment. Crystal clear. I could see the bottom. Jagged peaks rose straight up behind the water, snow patches clinging to the dark rock. The air smelled like wet granite and cold. Pure cold.

Nova standing at the shore of a turquoise alpine lake with jagged rocky peaks and snow patches rising behind

Then I was in. The water hit my chest and I didn't care — I swam laps with seven-thousand-foot peaks behind me, the cold pressing through my fur to my skin. This is the whole point. Every trail, every ridge, every mile of gain. It all leads to water like this.

Nova swimming in the deep turquoise alpine lake with rocky scree slopes and jagged peaks behind

Nova swimming through the turquoise water, peaks rising behind

My Kingdom

Camp went up on a rocky bench above the lake. My human pitched the tent with the ridgeline dead ahead — dark cliffs, snow that wouldn't quit, the last light going amber on the rock. I sat beside the tent and surveyed the basin. Everything I could see was mine for the night. My human sat on the rocks beside me and we watched the light change without saying anything. We don't need to. He knows what I'm looking at. I know he's watching it too.

Light blue tent on a rocky hillside above the lake with Nova sitting beside it, jagged peaks and snowfield behind

Morning

Overcast. Quieter than yesterday. The basin had a different mood — gray light, still water, the peaks reflected instead of lit. I stood on a rock at the shore and watched the mirror version of the mountains hold perfectly still. Moodier. I liked it.

Nova standing on a rock at the lake shore, jagged peaks reflected in still water under overcast morning sky

Obviously I got back in. You don't visit an alpine lake and not swim in it. That's a rule I have.

Nova swimming laps in the green-turquoise lake with rocky scree and peaks above under overcast skies

Nova swimming in the alpine lake, ripples spreading across the turquoise water

The Summit Push

We pushed up to Charlia Lakes Peak for the full view. Nearly seven thousand feet. I perched on the summit rocks and looked out in every direction — mountains stacked behind mountains, the entire Olympic range laid out like it was waiting for me to inspect it. I inspected it thoroughly.

Nova perched on summit rocks looking out over an expansive panorama of Olympic peaks with snow patches, overcast sky

Going Down

The ridge trail back was thick with wildflowers — lupine, paintbrush, everything blooming at once. I trotted through them with a jagged peak behind me, petals brushing my legs, the smell sweet and green and alive.

Nova on a ridge trail lined with purple lupine and orange Indian paintbrush wildflowers, a jagged snow-capped peak rising behind

Twenty-one miles over two days. Seventy-five hundred feet of gain. Two swims, one summit, one night sleeping above a lake that glowed turquoise even under clouds. The good kind of tired — the kind that sinks into your bones and stays warm. I was asleep in the back seat before we hit the highway.

Nova walking along a steep green hillside trail with rocky cliff spires to the right and distant ridges fading into haze

Written by

Nova